Cocktail Apron Tutorial


I took picutres for this tutorial while making an apron as a birthday present for my friend Veronica, unfortunately I gave her the apron without taking a picture of the final project - so the picture at the end of the tutorial is of a completely different apron than all the other pictures. I also had trouble figuring out the best way to illustrate making the box pleats, so those pictures aren't always of the same side, hopefully that doesn't make this tutorial too confusing. I came up with this process because I wanted to make simple unadorned aprons that would really showcase the fabric being used. The box pleats help the apron wrap around in a more flattering way than just a straight bistro-style apron.

1. Cut a rectangle for the apron skirt. I cut a 15" x 25" rectangle, but this is really up to you.

2. Fold and iron each of the 15" edges in a 1/4" twice. I normally use 100% cotton for my aprons, so I like to use the hightest setting with a lot of steam, the more steam the better for getting a nice crisp fold. However, all that steam can really hurt your fingers so be careful with this step.

3. Sew along the first fold line you made above.

4. On the top edge, mark for the box pleats by pushing in pins 5" and 5.5" in from each edge.

5. Move the ruler and insert the pins into the material in as straight as you can.

6. Starting on once side, fold the material over so that the two pins are on top of each other with a quarter inch between them and the fold. Remove the pins and iron a crease into the fold.

7. Stick a pin 1/4" in from this new crease. Unfold the fabric and remove the pin so that there is now a 1/4" pleat facing the edge of the rectangle, iron a crease into this new fold.

8. Fold the longer section of the rectanle behind the shorter section so that the fold lines up with the new crease you made in step 7. Iron a crease into this new fold.

9. Turn the fabric upside down and line up the creases made in steps 7 and 8 so that the crease you made in step 6 is pointing straight up from the material.

10. Push the top crease down so that the two sides fold out even to each side. Since this is such a small box pleat, you may need to use a pin to help the sides fold down. Iron a crease into these new folds.

11. Turn the fabric over again and line up all of the creases so that you have a tiny box pleat. Pin the pleat into place. Repeat starting with step 6 to create the box pleat on the other side of the apron.

12. Now that your pleats are done, it's time to attach the bottom binding. You can either use pre-made double-fold binding or make your own using my Straight Double-Fold Binding Tutorial. Cut a 25" piece of double fold binding and center it along the bottom edge of the apron.

13. Unfold the binding and move it up so that the top half of the binding is behind the apron and the bottom of the apron is in line with the center crease of the binding.

14. Fold the ends of the binding in over the edge of the apron and iron in place.

15. Fold the top and bottom corners of the binding up under themselves so that you won't have unfinished edges poking out and iron in place. Repeat from step 14 on the other side of the apron.

16. Fold the binding on it's center crease so that the apron is caught in the middle. Pin all along the binding to hold it in place and sew around the binding 1/8" from the the edges.

17. Cut a 60" - 75" piece of binding depending on how long you need your apron straps to be. Completely open the folds of the binding, fold in 1/4" of the edge and iron the fold.

18. Refold the binding, and iron the edge again. Do this on both sides of the binding. This is creating a nice clean edge for your apron straps.

19. Find the middle of the binding and mark it with a pin. Find the middle of the apron and mark it with a pin. Line the binding with the opening towards the bottom and apron up with the pins matching.

20. Move the apron up so that it is sandwiched between the binding. Pin all around the binding to hold the apron in place. Sew all around the binding 1/8" from the edges. I start about 1/2" from one of the binding edges and sew all the way around ending at that same point. I also add a little strength to sew a couple times where the apron meets the binding by backing up a little and sewing on top of the same line.

21. Ta-da! Completed cocktail apron. Sorry I don't have a picture of the same finished apron, but this definitely allows you to see what your finished apron should look like.